A brilliant example of 100% estate-grown Merlot, the 2005 Taylor Peak Merlot from the high-elevation (1,200-1,400 ft.) Bennett Valley vineyards of Jess Jackson’s Jackson Park Vineyard, exhibits a fabulous nose of red and blue fruits intermixed with crushed rocks, strawberry jam, and some subtle oak. The wine is full-bodied, opulent, rich, but also structured in the finish. This is a Merlot that is going to be a keeper. Give it another two or so years of bottle age and drink it over the following 15+. Despite the size of some of the cuvees produced at Kendall-Jackson (2.3 million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay and 300,000 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc), winemaker Randy Ullom is at the top of his game, and of course is given carte blanche authority by the two principals, Barbara Banke and her husband Jess Jackson. There are some terrific values in this portfolio. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

The vineyard gets the benefit of cool breezes via the Petaluma Gap. The structure is very polished, with firm tannins and brisk acids framing blackberry, cherry, blueberry, cola and spice flavors. Notable for its richness and finesse, and a great success for a California Merlot.——S.H.(7/1/2008)—— 92