There isn’t much Sangio in Washington, but the Pepper Bridge fruit is the pick of the litter. Ripe and nicely colored, this is 100% Sangiovese and actually shows some hints of pepper, tobacco and tea leaf. Still, the vineyard is in Walla Walla, not Tuscany, and the wine tastes more like a lightweight Syrah than a Chianti.——P.G.(6/1/2005)—— 87