Cassis and Maine blueberries are strikingly suggested in the nose of Alzinger’s 2007 Riesling Smaragd Hollerin, joined by fresh lime and peach on a luscious, lithe, refreshing, and for Smaragd, almost light palate. (Can this really have 13.6% alcohol? Presumably the lab doesn’t lie.) An intensely fruited finish also reveals Mosel-like wet stone persistence. I would expect this refined Riesling to be at its best over the next 3-4 years. Leo Alzinger senior’s lucid account of the 2007 vintage can be found in the general introduction to this report. After the extraordinary collection that he and his son, Leo, fielded from 2006, its successor – while different in personality – did not disappoint one bit. (I don’t know whether this was punishment for past sins, but I am sorry to have to report that your correspondent was not offered an opportunity to taste Riesling Smaragd bottlings from Liebenberg and Hohereck.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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