The best Riesling in this year’s collection is a 2005 Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel redolent of peaches and almonds, a pure expression of its site if not the last word on its terroir’s potential depth and complexity. This wine finishes with juicy, satisfying peachiness and plenty of polish. The corresponding Riesling Achleiten was tripped up by botrytis bitterness.Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Terrassen (not available; 84), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Terrassen ($11.00; 85), 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Kollmitz (not available; 84), 2005 Riesling Wachau ($11.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Federspiel Loibenberg (not available; 86).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700