From their estate vineyards, the 2007 Chardonnay Drake Estate’s light straw color possesses a greenish hue (always a good sign). The bouquet is more restrained than the Heintz’s, but it offers up hints of liquid minerality intermixed with white peaches, white currants, quince, honeyed citrus, brioche, and hazelnuts. With full-bodied flavors, great acidity, and a long, Corton-Charlemagne-like minerality and power, this 2007 is still playing it close to the vest, but it is a sensational, Burgundian-styled Chardonnay that should age effortlessly for a decade. The single vineyard Pinot Noirs are made from a wide range of California vineyards, primarily in the north, with Russian River and Sonoma Coast dominating, but there is also an Anderson Valley site (Ferrington), San Benito site (Vista Verde), and Yorkville Highlands (Weir). The Chardonnays are nearly as powerful as the Zinfandels in terms of alcohol strength, ranging from 14.5% to 14.8%.Tel. (707) 433-6425; Fax (707) 433-6546

Another massive, dramatically rich Chardonnay from Williams Selyem. Purists will find it ponderous, but there’s no denying the wealth of pineapple tart, orange custard, creme brulee, butterscotch and vanilla flavors. Lobster comes to mind as a natural partner.——S.H.(2/1/2010)—— 92