I am intrigued by 2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes, as structurally it is much more like a red wine than a white. Initially quite rich and expressive, the Chenevottes shuts down a bit in the glass. It is another wine that combines textural body and ripeness with outstanding energy and a definite tilt towards a more forward expression of fruit. Nectarine, apricot and vanillin are some of the nuances that wrap around the intense, focused finish. The Chenevottes will appeal most to readers who like firm whites, but it needs time to fully come together in the bottle. Nevertheless, it is striking. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.
Domaine Bernard Moreau is quite possibly the single finest under the radar grower in Burgundy today. There are many more famous names in the Cote de Beaune, some of them in Chassagne itself, but it is here, in this small, family run domaine where many of the most elegant and harmonious wines of the village are found. Bernard Moreau’s son, Alex, told me yields were down from 10% for the villages to as much as 50% for the Grand Ruchottes. Moreau brought in his fruit starting on September 20th and reported a high incidence of shot berries and berries with very little juice. The wines spent 12 months in oak, with no racking, and were then moved into oak with their fine lees for another six months. Reliance on natural yeasts and a cold cellar ensure a gradual elevage that is one of the reasons these wines remain so vibrant and full of life.
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