From 90-year-old vines and housed in a custom-made barrel since there are a mere 200 liters of it (from foot-trodden whole clusters) Dugat’s 2005 Chambertin smells of purple plum, blackberry rose hips, licorice and rose petals. It searches the palate with staining black fruit, licorice and wet stone, fills the mouth with floral perfume, then finishes with almost savage, severe intensity – like a fusion reaction – leaving behind tar, resin, pan drippings, licorice, wet stone and bitter-sweet black fruits. Not to be revisited (should one actually latch onto a bottle) for at least fifteen years. There is a tiny container for topping-off, and Dugat says he must limit his own barrel-tasting of Chambertin to three or four occasions per year.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800.