The 2008 Rosso di Montalcino is a gorgeous wine that captures the essence of the house style. Black cherries, menthol and minerals are some of the notes that emerge from this beautifully delineated, classically built Rosso. The 2008 shows lovely depth and terrific overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. A visit to Cerbaiona is always a treat. Of all the Brunelli in the cellar the most promising appears to be the 2010, while vintages 2007, 2008 and 2009 are less interesting, at least today. Prices have gone up considerably, especially for the 2006 Brunello, and the Rosso is undoubtedly very expensive, but at their best, the Cerbaiona wines deliver the goods. This continues to be one of my favorite vineyard sites for fine, traditionally made Brunello. Both Diego and Nora Molinari have battled health issues of late. I know I am not alone in wishing them speedy recoveries.Importers: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484
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