Charles Schleret Muscat, Alsace, France

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The 2005 Muscat d’Alsace here is as always a blend of Ottonel and Petits Grains. Orange and lemon zest, sage and apricot aromas lead to a sherbet-like, citrus dominated palate, wintergreen- and sage-laced palate, glossy in texture, yet possessed of lightness and lift, not to mention a sort of inhalation of an herbal, floral finish. There is a hint of sweetness – even Schleret has to deal with the consequences of seemingly ever-riper grapes – but it is in no way obtrusive. Here is a deftly rendered model of the refreshment – and if you put it through its paces, versatility – of which Muscat d’Alsace is capable but (as with Pinot d’Alsace) so seldom displays today.Charles Schleret (who founded his small, eponymous domaine in the 1950s) may be signaling that he is near retirement, but little had changed since I last visited him nearly fifteen years ago including his enthusiasm, the generally high quality, the style (save for a tad more residual sugar) and simple hierarchy of his wines, their leisurely pace of release, or the large apron he wears over top of a jacket and tie. It is hard here not to succumb to nostalgia, and to become more than a little peeved in recognition of how rare Alsace wine with such versatility, modesty, simple labeling (!) and effortless grace has nowadays become. All this praise aside (and I tasted a range of older wines as well on this occasion) numerous Schleret 2004s (which are currently on the market) were obscured by an overtly milky cast as a byproduct of their malo-lactic fermentations.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910 1990