Unfortunately, there are only three barrels (i.e. 75 cases) of the Arlaud 2005 Clos St.-Denis, which boasts a nose of black raspberry, rhubarb, woodsy earthiness, and high-toned distilled herbal suggestions including lavender and catnip. Formidably dense and youthfully severe in tannins on the palate, this finishes with impressive underlying stoniness, palate-staining – almost savage – raw berry concentration, deep penetration, and sheer grip. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.