The 2008 Lalama is a blend of mainly Mencia complemented by Garnacha, Mouraton and Brancinao (although Javier expects to increase the other varieties in the future). Around 40% is aged in the European foudres and the rest in assorted sizes of used barrels. It has a very pure, almost Burgundy (Morey) like nose with fine definition, with scents of raspberry, undergrowth and black tea. The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp, saline entry. It is very pure and represents a fine marriage between crisp acidity and supple red fruit. It is harmonious and focused with lovely dark cherry, raspberry and spice on the finish. Drink now-2016. Occasionally you have to journey to remote areas in order to reach some of Spain’s finest producers, but the long drive to Dominio do Bibei to meet winemaker Javier Dominguez and his team was certainly worth it. Though winemaking in this part of Ribeira Sacra dates back centuries, the winery is unapologetically modern in design, as each disconnected building dedicated to one part of the vinification process cascades down the gorge. The vines occupy steep loam and clay terraces over granite and slate bedrock that are low in organic material, located between 300 and 670 meters in altitude. Javier came across as a deeply philosophical person with strong tenets about his wines, which exuded great purity and varietal expression, almost Burgundy-like in their tannin profile, but with a little more fruit intensity. What I enjoyed was their precision and symmetry – wines that demand concentration before sitting back and simply enjoying them. Importer: De Maison Selections (USA); www.demaisonselections.com; and Carte Blanche (UK)