Hirtzberger’s 2005 Chardonnay Smaragd Schlossgarten smells of apple, flowers, and toasted almond. Attractively creamy and rich on the palate, it nonetheless is persistently juicy and bright at the same time, finishing with apple, almond, and a savory tang of sea salt. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700