The least expensive Chardonnay, the excellent 2007 Napa (20,000 cases produced) offers notes of poached pears, white peaches, and citrus oil in a medium-bodied, crisp style revealing hints of honeysuckle and spice. Complex, well-balanced, and flavorful, this is a serious Chardonnay to enjoy over the next few years. I was impressed with the offerings from this winery off Larkmead Lane near Calistoga. Tel. (707) 942-0753

Made in an exaggerated, oaky style that’s dominated by caramel, butterscotch and vanilla flavors, with undertones of pineapple creme brulee and ultra-ripe peaches.——S.H.(5/1/2009)—— 84