Here’s a Zin that makes you think. What is Zin? Does it have an upper price limit? This wine is very dry and ripe, although the fruity, berry flavors are deeply buried under the tannins. It’s as velvety smooth as a cult Cabernet, without offering the immediate pleasure and depth. Will it age? This is new style Zin at its best, an experiment in the making. ——S.H.(3/1/2004)—— 90