I am a perennial buyer of a case of Domaine Weinbach's Gewurztraminer Cuvee Theo. (I still have two bottles of the glorious 1989, which remains a remarkably young, vibrant wine.) The 1994 (500 cases) displays a light gold color that appears more mature than the wine's age would suggest. An intense nose of white chocolate, pepper, lychee nuts, and rose petals is followed by a dense, smoky, oily wine with exceptional viscosity and flavor extraction. It is a full-throttle, decadent Gewurztraminer with a bold personality. It would be wonderful with a great Muenster cheese (one of my all-time favorite wine/cheese combinations), foie gras, or a hearty choucroute garni (an Alsatian sausage and sauerkraut, stick-to-your-ribs dish). Domaine Weinbach's 1994 Gewurztraminers are all intense, spicy wines. Knowing that readers have either a love or hate relationship with this varietal, I recommend these Gewurztraminers only for those readers who are fond of ostentatious, in-your-face styles of wine.There has been no shortage of great vintages for Domaine Weinbach. 1989 and 1990 are the finest recent vintages prior to 1994, and this estate turned out extremely strong 1992s and 1993s. The 1994s offer a dazzling combination of power, high extraction, and vibrant, well-integrated acidity, making them strikingly intense, beautifully structured wines. This domaine consistently has conservative crop yields. For example, in 1994 the French government permitted 80 hectoliters per hectare, but Domaine Weinbach averaged 45 hectoliters per hectare. The estate's harvest began on September 20th and finished on November 18th. Kudos to the Fallers, who once again have turned out exquisite wines.The 1994 wines reviewed in this issue were tasted in December, 1995.Domaine Weinbach is imported by Vineyard Brands, Inc. (Robert Haas Selections), Chester, VT; tel. (802) 875-2139
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