Woody and smelling of sawdust early, this four-grape blend eases toward roasted berry, cassis, herbal plum and molten chocolate. It’s massive and structured, with a big-boned skeleton and heat on the leathery, roasted finish due to 15.5% alcohol. Big, fiery, saucy and lusty, but short on refinement and elegance. ——M.S.(3/1/2011)—— 89