Winemaker Tim Stevens’ dark, subtle, beautifully proportioned wines glide across the palate like Apollo Ono dancing with the stars. The cool site brings out some of the floral and citrus accents often missing from Merlot, and the darker cherry and plum fruit flavors fill in right behind. Supple and sensuous, this is a wine to savor and, if possible, cellar for another decade. ——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 92
