From a true grand cru site, the 2004 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard boasts a complex, ethereal perfume of flowers, forest floor, red and black currants, sweet cherries, and plums. Dense ruby/purple with a gorgeous texture, full-bodied floral and berry flavors, and a stunning finish, this gorgeous wine gets my nod as the finest Tantara Pinot. Tel. (805) 938-5050

Here’s a big, in-your-face Pinot Noir, offering up a blast of superripe fruit, almost Grenache-like in thick, soft red cherry flavors, complexed with sweet licorice, cola, mocha and spicy, vanilla oak. It’s a roller coaster palate experience, a thrill every second, yet somehow maintains a silky, Pinotesque delicacy. Great wine. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 94