This 2004 Vouvray Sec smells of lime, under-ripe peach, plus orange zest, and has an aura of greenhouse and a pungent overtone of white pepper. Bright and almost stunningly penetrating in its intense lime fruit, it refreshes the palate and displays remarkable sap, chalky intensity, and grip in its finish. I hesitate to go on record as positively recommending that you cellar this wine, but knowing the ways of Foreau wine, I can tell you of many significantly leaner wines than this from years gone by that startled tasters with their freshness and complexity when Foreau re-released them after 7-10 years in bottle. Both Philippe Foreau and his importer believe in giving at least a portion of the wines of the Domaine du Clos Naudin (the alternate name for Foreau’s estate) an opportunity to be sold after blossoming in bottle. So while space precludes my publishing notes on other recent vintages, such treasures as the supremely elegant 2002 Demi-Sec and the doubtless ageless, super-concentrated (albeit expensive) 2003 Moelleux Reserve can still be found, at least in the U.S. marketplace.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990