Abeja Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, USA

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Originating in a single 1972 block of Sagemoor’s Bacchus vineyard with vines thinned to a single cluster per shoot, Abeja’s 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve represents only the fourth time they have released a reserve bottling, and is exceptional among their wines thus far not only in having fermented spontaneously (rather than having been yeasted) but also in having undergone 32 months of elevage – significantly longer than any of its predecessors. (And there are only around 200 cases of this rather than the roughly 500 each of previous reserves.) Macaroon, vanilla, and caramel notes from the 100% new oak utilized here segue harmoniously into very rich licorice, confitured cherry, and creme de cassis. A deep umami savor of salted red meat augmented by tobacco and nut oils emerges on this wine’s sappy, satiny palate and extends to a memorably mouthwatering finish. I would expect at least a dozen years of satisfaction, and, given the degree of polish and complexity already on offer, I see no reason why (allowing of course for vinous mood phases) one should avoid opening some right away! The Mill Creek Vineyard homestead of Abeja founders Ken and Ginger Harrison east of Walla Walla is as yet a relatively minor source of their grapes, the most important estate-grown portion originating in Heather Hill Vineyard, east of Seven Hills in the Blue Mountain foothills south of town, which Harrison planted a year before he incorporated the winery. Veteran (California and Washington) winemaker John Abbott has been a partner from Abeja’s 2002 inception. (“Mill Creek,” incidentally, has not and is unlikely to ever be used on a label. Instead, given the existence of the eponymous vineyard in Sonoma, this particular Mill Creek will probably soon be re-named.) Fermentations here are usually via inoculation, with yeast strains matched to grape and stylistic intention, but in any event to the extent possible “neutral.” The young red wines are pressed at or shortly before reaching dryness, and malolactic transformation, too, is via inoculation, prior to the completion of alcoholic fermentation. Fermentative skin contact was extended in 2011 after Abbott concluded that this was a good way to compensate for the high acidity of 2010 fruit, even though, due to tank capacity in the cellar, few lots from that earlier vintage were able to benefit from this insight. As my notes and scores demonstrate, things only get impressive here when one arrives at the Cabernets; but then, these represent collectively roughly three-quarters of Abeja’s production, and at the reserve end are superb. Abbott candidly explains the evolution of his Cabernets since 2007. “I asked myself, having made 20 vintages in Washington, was there something I would like to do better, to go beyond where we are now as a winery? I thought this could be a little in the aromatics and a little in the mouth expression. My background is microbiology. Our wines were very solid, but maybe to the point of being a little bit squeaky clean. Not that I want volatile acidity or brettanomyces, but we’ve really backed off on enzymatics, we’re tasting all the lots twice a week and letting them kind of tell us when they’re ready for SO2 or racking; and we’ve doing some native ferments.” He adds, in keeping with his old profession, that (surely unlike most vintners) he’s regularly literally putting his musts and wines under the microscope!Tel. (509)526-7400