Weingut Franz Kunstler Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Spatlese, Hochheim am Main, Germany

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The 2006 Hochheimer Kirchenstuck Riesling Spatlese displays the prominent sweetness that accrues to most of Kunstler’s non-dry wines, its pear and plum fruit glazed with honey, and its texture slippery and glycerin-rich. But there is an attactive lightness and elegance, and a finish with nut oil and savory mineral suggestions not overwhelmed by the high residual sugar. I am not entirely convinced this will be worth cellaring, but it would take several years to at all diminish its sweetness. One can’t say that Gunther Kunstler has enjoyed the best of luck in recent years. This year’s move into a spacious and superior cellar coincided with the earliest and most precipitant ripening of Riesling grapes in modern history, and accomplishing the harvest and move both in timely fashion was an enormous challenge. But the bottled results show that the challenge was well met. The green harvest was as intensive and expensive as many a genuine harvest of the past, Kunstler relates, and even after rigorous triage, musts were charcoal-filtered (as has been the case in other rained-on vintages).Imported: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463