The four 1993s reviewed in this issue include three strikingly pretty dry wines, and one very sweet dessert-styled wine (the Marigny Moelleux). The completely dry 1993 Vouvray Sec-Le Marigny is an exquisite example of what heights dry Chenin Blanc can achieve in the clay/limestone soils of Vouvray. The wine displays a superb, beautifully scented nose of spring flowers, honey, and fruit. Dry on the palate, with gorgeously pure, ripe fruit, medium body, and exquisite precision to its personality, this is a knock-out dry Chenin Blanc that can be drunk as an aperitif or with an assortment of delicate foods. I prefer to drink these wines early for their super freshness, but this offering will last for 3-4 years, perhaps longer. This low-tech domaine, which primarily practices organic farming, combined with the use of indigenous yeasts from the vineyard for fermentation, has become one of the new darlings of the French press. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler, Box 56, Unionville, PA 19375. The telephone number is (610) 486-0800; fax (610) 932-0279. Questions regarding availability in specific states and cities should be directed to Peter Weygandt.

Very austere for a Vouvray, this is light and very tart, finishing bone dry with a lemon-peel bitterness. There is some peachy fruit underneath. -