Although interesting and ultimately a good wine, this one’s a little tough to warm up to. Start with the slightly musky aromas, then the slightly sour flavors. Finish with tart, malic acidity. But put these pieces all together and the result is a focused, crisp wine that would cut wonderfully through the fat of a pork roast. —J.C. ——J.C.(3/1/2003)—— 86
