The 2007 To (from the Magyar for “l(fā)ake”) represents a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and touch of Welschriesling, brightly fresh-fruited yet subtly creamy, almost doughy in texture; richly mouth-filling yet delicate in weight. Its apricot and pineapple fruit is tinged with citrus rind and fruit pit, and toasted grain underlies its long finish, for an effect almost like a cross between Riesling and white Burgundy. Interestingly, though, Velich points out that it is his Chardonnay grapes that bring the “cool” and refreshing side to this blend in 2007. It should prove versatile at table over the next couple of years. A single barrel of “Olto,” wine with approximately inverse proportions – four times as much Sauvignon as Chardonnay – reminded me of certain more successful barrel-fermented Sancerres in its low-toned mingling of caraway, citrus zest, honey, and toasted grain. Heinz Velich (whose brother and former partner is the force behind the wines of Moric, about which see elsewhere in this report) produces Austria’s most distinguished Chardonnay (from vines his father planted believing they were Pinot Blanc) as well as some of the country’s finest nobly sweet wines. His wines are marked among other things by long stays in barrel and low-sulfur, resulting in a style Velich considers but closer to tradition and (especially when it comes to nobly sweet elixirs) more interesting from a culinary standpoint than the more reductive approach favored by most of his fellow Neusiedlersee vintners.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com