The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a deep sensual wine imbued with generous layers of ripe dark fruit that emerge from its medium to full-bodied frame. This gorgeous, expressive Brunello turns richer and weightier in the glass as the fruit begins to emerge, finally building to a harmonious crescendo of intense flavor. There is more than enough fruit here to support extended cellaring. This is a magnificent effort from Andrea Cortonesi. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.
I was blown away with the wines I tasted at Uccelliera this year. Proprietor Andrea Cortonesi showed me the entirety of his Brunellos in cask, which provided fascinating insights into the evolution of this small, family-run property. To be honest, I had never been a huge fan of Cortonesi’s Brunellos until the 2004 vintage, as I often found the wines excessively heavy. Not coincidentally, 2004 is the first year Cortonesi worked with lower temperatures in fermentation which resulted in wines of superb elegance and delineation. Uccelliera is now without question one of the handful of top producers in Montalcino.
A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119