Weingut Theo Minges Edition Rosenduft Gewurztraminer Spatlese Trocken, Pfalz, Germany

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Whereas Minges’ so-called “edition rose perfume” turned out subtly sweet in 2008, his 2009 Gewurztraminer Spatlese Edition Rosenduft is overtly, perhaps even overly sweet, while one has the alternative of a more intriguing trocken version (on which see my note). Mint, celery root, and rose petal abound, and like its dry, high-alcohol counterpart this preserves a welcome sense of primary juiciness that can’t be taken for granted with Gewurztraminer. Cinnamon, mint, and clove add attractive counterpoint to a nearly confectionary finish. Those with a sweet tooth can unconditionally enjoy this over the next several years, but while I suspect it will remain fresh for at least a decade, this will not be sufficient time to make significant inroads into such a strong sense of sweetness. Despite picking into November, Theo Minges was one of those Sudpfalzer who had no trouble retaining acidity in 2009. Indeed, some of his dry offerings practically left me wanting to don sunglasses during our tasting session. As has become usual at this address, the collection is enormously diverse (and I do not usually taste nearly all of its non-Riesling members). “There are a lot of growers,” jokes Minges, “who have an enormous range of wines because they don’t sell well, so the grower keeps trying something new. I go out to the vineyard, get inspired, have a vision, and then I feel compelled to carry it out. And this repeats itself however many times …Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300