The 2009 Leirana is 100% Albarino sourced from 60-year-old vines. It was naturally fermented and aged in stainless steel. Aromas of mineral, nutmeg, jasmine, peach, and tropical aromas inform the nose of this smooth-textured, vibrant Albarino. In the glass peach and tangerine notes make an appearance leading to a lengthy, pure finish. Drink this brilliant effort over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Peninsula Wines, New Rochelle, NY; www.oleimports.com

The price is too elevated given that the wine is simple and already fading. Aromas of peach and melon are soft and a touch mealy, and so is the palate, which has a flat feel and flavors of papaya, melon and apple. Finishes pulpy and with the first hints of maderization.——M.S.(7/1/2011)—— 86