White currant, honeyed citrus, creme brulee, brioche, and poached pear jump from the glass of the medium to full-bodied, light straw-colored 2006 Chardonnay Sea Smoke. Full-bodied and deep, this is a stunning Chardonnay to drink over the next 7-8 years. All of the 2006 Pinots from Brewer-Clifton tend to emphasize the more spicy clove, allspice, underbrush, and root vegetable characteristics of Pinot Noir more than pure raspberry, black cherry, or black currant fruit. Not that they don’t have fruit, but it seems this vintage has been given a very overt spiciness, so readers who don’t like that might want to steer clear of the following Pinots. Some of the longest-lived Chardonnays being made in California these days come from the dynamic duo of Steve Clifton and Greg Brewer. The wines only see about 20-25% new oak and are bottled without fining or filtration. While their alcohols are relatively high, the acid levels are as well, and I have never had a Chardonnay from them that hasn’t been still very vibrant at 6-7 years of age, and they never taste hot.Tel. (805) 735-9184
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