Ceago Kathleen's Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Clear Lake, USA

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The owners, a branch of the Fetzers, make a big deal about being biodynamic, and the wine does seem to have a laser-like purity of citrus zest and grapefruit sorbet flavor that’s so clean and vibrant. The tech notes say there was some new oak, but you can hardly sense it; since the fruit and acidity are so upfront. ——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 86