The owners, a branch of the Fetzers, make a big deal about being biodynamic, and the wine does seem to have a laser-like purity of citrus zest and grapefruit sorbet flavor that’s so clean and vibrant. The tech notes say there was some new oak, but you can hardly sense it; since the fruit and acidity are so upfront. ——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 86