The entry-level 2006 Rosso Conero (Montepulciano) is made in a fresh, fruit forward style that emphasizes violets, smoke, earthiness, cured meats and dark fruit. There is a rustic quality to this wine, but it remains immensely pleasing and loaded with personality. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. Eccentric proprietor Antonio Terni makes some of the most compelling wines coming out of the Marche from the small property his family has owned since the late 1800s. Consulting oenologist Attilio Pagli oversees the winemaking. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411