Girardin’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combottes (from two parcels at opposite ends of this elongated cru) is overtly citric and bright, its lemon and pineapple somewhat overlain both on the nose and palate by resin, lanolin, and vanillin notes from the barrel. Fat and rich yet persistently juicy and fresh, it finishes with purity and persistence, as well as an understated note of chalk, and ought to reward a half dozen years in bottle. I tasted a wide selection including all of the top crus of Vincent Girardin’s truly vast output (from nearly fifty acres of vines plus a wide range of contracts as negociant), the wines having been pre-assembled from barrel for my tasting (hence the wide point spreads). Girardin is at pains to press very gently and he did only limited lees-stirring in 2006. He favors 20, 30, and 40% new wood for his village, premier cru, and grand cru wines, respectively. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802.