The 2004 Riesling Sommerberg D Vendange Tardive smells of peaches and apricots, butter cream and vanilla. Overtly creamy, silken, and rich on the palate, but possessed as well of a distinctive sense of underlying stony mineral density, it scarcely betrays its 60 grams of residual sugar. Peach, apricot kernel, nut oils, and vanilla, salt and stone linger with amazing persistence. This is easily a candidate for a dozen or more years in the cellar. But as it has nowhere near the delicacy, brightness, or lift of the 2005 Riesling Sommerberg D Vendage Tardive, I would wait several years before even re-visiting it. The domaine of Albert Boxler – where son Jean has been calling the shots for several years now – has long exhibited a consistency and quality that very few other wineries in France – much less Alsace – can equal, and that is demonstrated not just by their superb results with “noble” varieties in less than easy vintages, but already at the ostensibly “l(fā)ow end” of the varietal spectrum, where one can only wish there were more estates rendering wines of such delicious distinction. (Inexplicably, Boxler did not offer me a taste of his Chasselas or his Muscat – both of which can often be outstanding of their sort – and after this occurred to me, I was too pressed for time to make up for the omission at the end of our session.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185