A new offering, the 2002 Cameron Proprietary Red (33% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, and the rest equal parts Malbec and Cabernet Franc) is an elegant, medium-bodied effort displaying attractive mineral, black currant, white chocolate, dried herb, and spice box characteristics. It could easily pass for a St.-Emilion or Graves in a blind tasting. Atypically measured and nuanced by California standards, it will drink well for 10-12 years. Tel. (707) 539-7511; Fax (707) 539-3601

An odd wine. It’s one of the most overtly sweet Bordeaux blends from Napa I’ve had in quite some time. Seems to have residual sugar, and also a slightly Porty note.——S.H.(5/1/2005)—— 84