The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Jericho Canyon Vineyard (a 1,730-case cuvee of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot and Cabernet Franc) has an inky dark ruby/purple color, a wonderfully sweet nose of espresso roast, fudge, blackberry, and cassis with a hint of incense and smoke. The wine is full-bodied, broadly flavored, opulent, and voluptuous, and that in itself seems to give the wine its current appeal, although I think this is a candidate for at least two decades of cellaring. Tel. (707) 433-0870; fax (707) 433-0871

The wine shows a soft ripeness and depth of flavor, yet is balanced, with good acidity. Gorgeous structure; it is already forward and fleshy in cassis, raspberry, cherry, milk chocolate and smoky oak flavors. A touch of funky raw meat adds a complexing note. Drink now–2011 or so. ——S.H.(7/1/2007)—— 92