The 2004 Lota is Cousino-Macul’s new entry into the high-end sweepstakes. If this first vintage is any indicator, the winery is off to a great start. This vintage is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot from two vineyard sources. It spent 13 months in new French oak and was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Opaque purple-colored, it has a splendid perfume of pain grille, graphite, black currants, and blackberry liqueur. This is followed by a layered, full-bodied wine with gobs of spicy, plummy black fruits, ripe tannins, and excellent delineation. It has 8-10 years of cellaring potential and should drink well through 2030.Kudos to Cousino-Macul for this significant upgrade to their portfolio. Importer: Billington Imports, www.billingtonwines.com

A little dense early on but airing unleashes cassis, cherry and tobacco aromas. Next in line you’ll find black cherry, chocolate and vanilla. All in all it’s a big, round and nicely balanced red. Of note, it marks the winery’s entry into the super-Chilean category, something timed to coincide with Cousino-Macul’s 150th anniversary.——M.S.(12/31/2006)—— 90