Even before you smell it, you can tell this is a sweetie from the old-gold color and thick texture. Aromas of vanilla custard and creme brulee, apricot preserves, orange-blossom honey and vanilla. Flavors are extravagantly fruity and sweet, with a honeyed aftertaste that lingers. It could use a bit more acidity to balance out all that sugar. ——S.H.(12/31/2000)—— 86