A barrel sample of the 2004 Finca Sandoval (84% Syrah, 9% Mourvedre, and 7% Bobal) may be even better than the 2003 as it revealed beautifully fragrant aromas that surpassed those of its predecessor.
While still somewhat a work in progress, one has to be impressed with the efforts of well-known Spanish journalist Victor La Serna in bringing to the world’s attention the potential for high quality in the long-forgotten Manchuela appellation. The first releases from this modest 26-acre vineyard, planted primarily with Syrah, have all been impressive, and the 2003 appears to be the finest yet produced. Cropped at 23 hectoliters per hectare, this blend of 80% Syrah, 9% Mourvedre, 7% Bobal, and 4% Tempranillo was bottled unfiltered after an eleven month sojourn in French oak. Fortunately, there are 34,000 bottles of this beautiful, dense ruby/purple-tinged 2003. Its complex aromatics (scorched earth, sweet blackberries, freshly ground pepper, licorice, cassis, and a touch of mocha/chocolate) are followed by a full-bodied wine displaying velvety tannin, a broad, expansive mid-palate, luscious sweetness, and admirable freshness as well as definition. It is accessible enough to be drunk young, but promises to age gracefully for 7-10 years. Readers who visit this winery should try and persuade La Serna to sell a bottle or two of his remarkable 2003 Cuvee TNS (rated 95), made from two-thirds Torriga Nacional and one-third Syrah. Production is tiny, and it is not exported to America, but it is truly an exhilarating wine of complexity, richness, and stature.
Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767
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