The Bisci brothers (which sounds like the name of a band) are best known for their superior Verdicchio-based white wines, the finest in the Marches, but their high-powered winemaker, Paolo Caciorgna, is from Tuscany and has a very sure hand with Sangiovese as well. The 2001 Villa Castiglioni, Sangiovese with a small amount of Cabernet in the blend, shows the perfumed and elegant red fruit and violets of this variety, a fine-grained texture with great purity and tensile strength, and a lingering, caressing elegance on the close. It will easily drink well for another dozen years, and is pure class, an indication that the Marches should take Sangiovese more seriously.
Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411
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