The 80% new oak on this wine really sticks out, giving toasty, caramelized and vanilla bean notes. That makes the underlying cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruit, which is superripe, taste jammy, almost sweet. The result is a little in your face, but it’s quite a rich wine that might develop some bottle nuance over the next 4–6 years. ——S.H.(12/1/2010)—— 88