The 2006 Syrah Alisos Hills displays the smoky lard and bacon fat notes of this varietal. Dark ruby/purple-colored with some charcoal, pepper, and spice, the wine (all from Santa Barbara) should drink nicely for 5-7 years. Despite the size of some of the cuvees produced at Kendall-Jackson (2.3 million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay and 300,000 bottles of Sauvignon Blanc), winemaker Randy Ullom is at the top of his game, and of course is given carte blanche authority by the two principals, Barbara Banke and her husband Jess Jackson. There are some terrific values in this portfolio. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

An extraordinarily rich, complex and satisfying Syrah. It’s massive in blackberry, pepper, cola, spice and smoky oak flavors. Yet for all the size, it never loses its sense of balance and elegance. This low production wine comes from the Los Alamos region of Santa Barbara, a likely future appellation in its own right.——S.H.(6/1/2008)—— 94