The 2008 Cerasuolo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is one of the most interesting roses readers will come across. The Cerasuolo has developed beautifully over the last year. The fruit has acquired gorgeous burnished tones and lovely nuance. Sweet tobacco, herbs and licorice linger on the classy finish. Valentino's Cerasuolo is probably best viewed as a light red wine rather than an easygoing rose. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Valentini is one of Italy's cult producers, known only to a handful of loyal fans. This year I was only able to taste one new release, the 2006 Montepulciano, the first new vintage since 2002. It is a hugely promising wine, but one that is likely to test the patience of those lucky enough to find it. Importer: Domenico Valentino, New York, NY; tel. ( 212) 679-0822