Having re-released not long ago a 2002 Alte Reben, Brundlmayer last year re-released his 2002 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg, whose nose of iris and herbs is irresistible. Comparing the two 2002s side by side, and the Kaferberg displays more pronounced minerality (brine and wet stone), firmness, and brightness. It may be slightly less winsome than the Alte Reben (which, as already noted, is even more impressive eighteen months after its re-release), but age has refined this Kaferberg, emphasizing the mineral and floral elements with striking clarity, yet without the wine seeming too spare, and certainly without its having acquired any bitterness or old wine tones. This will stimulate your frontal lobes every bit as much as it will your salivary glands. In 2006, Willi Brundlmayer really displayed mastery of his sites. While their fruits all ripened to high potential alcohol such as we have become used to in most vintages at this estate, this was by and large without detrimental effects, and the wines display clarity and refinement without heat or bitterness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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