One of my favorite small estates in Chianti Classico, Poggiopiano continues to offer wines of notable size and structure for an area – San Casciano Val di Pesa – once thought of as strictly a source for quaffing wine. But where there’s a will there’s a way, and the Bartoli brothers, assisted by Luca D’Attoma, don’t mind upsetting certain superficial preconceptions. The 2001 Chianti Classico, significantly more muscular, forceful, and vigorous than the appellation average, offers fine fruit and a light oak spiciness which further boosts drinking pleasure. Drink: 2004-2008.Importer: Wiscon Corp. Melrose Park, IL; tel. (708) 450-0074