1 Uvaggio is making a serious case for Lodi Vermentino. This bottling is compelling: savory with herb and green olive notes, and yet freshly fruity and delicate, well integrated and plenty acidic to stand up to a wide range of food, even given its modest 11% alcohol level. A stunner that’ll keep you thinking, and asking for more. ——V.B.(4/1/2011)—— 93