Ripe peach and smoky toasted almond in the nose of Muller-Catoir’s 2009 Haardter Grauburgunder Kabinett trocken go on to inform a full, glossy palate, with chew of peach skin and a lick of salt adding some invigoration to the finish. I would plan on utilizing this within the next several years. (I cannot work up much enthusiasm for this estate’s ostensibly better of two Pinot Gris bottlings, whose vinification in barrique seems to have robbed it of fresh fruit juiciness or any potential charm.) “Despite sporadic rain at harvest time,” notes Martin Franzen about the 2009 harvest, “cool weather kept botrytis completely at bay. Frankly,” he adds, “it was hard to make disappointing wine with raw materials of this caliber.” But it was also impossible to achieve nobly sweet results save from Rieslaner, with its notorious penchant for spontaneous desiccation even in the absence of botrytis. This is the first vintage, incidentally, for which this estate has claimed organic bona fides, and Franzen – even if predictably – claims to find additional depth in his wines thanks to that conversion. (Not that this estate has ever been anything but entirely circumspect in any use of herbicides or pesticides.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300