Acidity, hardness and steel always characterize this intensely dry Chardonnay, made in perhaps the coolest corner of Russian River Valley. The ’06 is minerally, angular and austere. Call it Chablisian. With jangly acidity, it’s relieved by peach, green apple and Meyer lemon flavors. Enormously elegant. Drink now through 2012.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 91