The 2018 Crozes Hermitage Les Calendes, from Ferraton's own vineyards, boasts a remarkable nose of stewed blackberries and tapenade, all laced with salted licorice, violets and black tea. Full-bodied and supple, it adds hints of mocha and asphalt, yet retains an intriguing sense of freshness, then ends long and silky. The tannins have evolved quickly over the past year, and there's no need to defer gratification.