Like the domaine's 1996 vintage, Leflaive's 1999s were quite marked by reduction out of the gates, and the 1999 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru remains somewhat introverted. Offering up a smoky bouquet of waxy citrus rind, grilled bread, confit lemon and iodine, it's full-bodied, powerful and tight-knit, with considerable dry extract and concentration, but not much in the way of plenitude or expressiveness. If the Leflaive style is all about elegance, then the 1999 Chevalier is rather blocky and foursquare. Perhaps more will come with time, but for now, my sense is that the 1999—like the 1996—will never quite realize all its potential. That's a pity, as this is a superb white Burgundy vintage.
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