The vines date to the early 1970s, and the vineyard is on the valley floor near Calistoga. Winemaker Bruce Devlin worked at Boschendal, South Africa’s first winery to barrel ferment Chenin Blanc. Dry and crisp, this wine shows wildflower and citrus flavors, and a sweet, green-pea note with an edge of toasted wood. Not only is this an elegant table white, it should evolve over the next five to seven years. ——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 92