Firm in acids, with some tannins, yet not at all hard. This is a magnificent, masculine Pinot Noir. It floods the palate with cherry pie, cola and mocha flavors, Asian spices and a sweet, smoky, buttery phyllo pastry quality. So technically perfect, with such structure, it seems guaranteed for the cellar. Drink now through 2010, but who knows how long it will last. ——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 95